Did the same thing when i was young we went to Maui, and there was a massive storm the night before, and so the waves were huge, waited for my chance to get out past the break, and once i did i was a quarter of a mile down the shore within a minute, and my parents were waving me back in, then i could hardly get in to shore cause waves kept sucking me back out, but luckily i was in good enough shape to get in, neither of my parents were particularly good swimmers, and they were panicking, and actually had a local guy who helped me in once i got to shore, and he was going to swim out and grab me. When i got to shore i was wondering what the fuss was about, as i wasnt particularly panicked about it all. Its funny how when you are young you just think nothing of that kind of thing, then you realise once you are a little older how bad it could have turned out.
truly laughing my ass off. The ex presidents are surfers. Was it brodie who waiting for the swell of the century?