Most pro's are <5'10" ... Just lately, guys like Jordy Smith and Dane Reynolds are taking charge (both are 6'+). I like watching power surfing mixed with solid airs, smaller guys tend to look a bit "flicky" on a wave... that and I'm 6'1" 190 so I'm probably biased. Anyway, I competed (NSSA) all through college and still surf 3-5 times a week. You got me beat in years though, I started when I was 12 and I'm 31 now, so 19 years so far... I've seen Curren surf Hammonds and Rincon. If you're ever in Santa Barbara during a decent swell, watching the guy surf his home spots in person is something else... its like he has a halo around his head or something - the lineup parts ways and he's on the best wave of the set doing exactly what is right for each section, its artful in every sense of the word... OP, for me, surfing at this point in my life is more of a problem/addiction... i.e. it interferes with the normal day-to-day stuff (don't get me wrong, I make sure surfing takes precedence). But, if you get hooked - and its highly likely you will - be prepared to make some sacrifices. Mike P.S. Costa Rica has some shady surf camps (a bit of a rip off), which ones are you looking at?
I like the more power surfer type also... strong lines with a top to bottom vertical assault, not so much air. Probably 'cause if I got any, it was purely by accident... ha! I don't surf much anymore mostly because of the crowds and having to start from scratch to earn a spot in the line up. Unless you're a god (and even then for the spots I [used to] surf), you literally have to fight for you're right. That drains me (sigh)... I've lost the will. It's amazing how the top guys just have the innate ability to be in the right place at the right time for the best sets. Waves I would pass up on seem to turn into gold when they pick'em. When I was surfing, the NSSA was just picking up steam. Wasn't Ian Cairns and some other Aussie involved in bringing it to the forefront back in the day?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YolqPak-b54 One of the best surfing moments IMO... I went to Bawa in 2005, the season after the tsunami hit, and the wave no-longer has its appeal... its not what you see in the video by any means but still a surf spot. Yeah, Ian Cairns and Peter Townsend brought the format to the US. I stopped in 1999, but its become huge these days... even back in '99 professional surfing was still a bit out of the mainstream.
former surfer - surfed enough to mess up my ears. This guy taught me to surf .... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NLlIuq9OcFM Now he is something of a celebrity long board shaper. shapes alaia boards for top guys around the world. So I am partial to learning on a long board... but if you do a lot of swimming and workout your paddling muscles - you might be able to start doing some fun surfing in your first 7 days. One of the keys is to be able to paddle your board almost as fast of the wave. which is why you should just paddle around as much as you can... even in a pool. On about your third or fourth day if a 2 or 3 foot ground swell comes in and you angle your board correctly (to avoid perling and take off with the wave) you might find you self standing and riding a good one. I remember my first real ride --- tourmaline in PB right in front of the pump house in san diego in 88. About my 4th day. Turns out it was a perfect day for beginners because the swell was organized with about 2.5 to 3 foot on its faces. waves were 20 seconds or so apart and the sets were long. They were also breaking at just the right angle to the beach for long rides. I remember paddling in and angling my board - all of a sudden the wave kind lifted the board in - I stood up... knees all bent but I was riding. I even had time to standup higher and ride by guys paddling out. I remember thinking - I am surfing and then losing my mind because it was so fun. Still one of the best feelings of my life.
I have no idea what you guys are talking about, but this was truly a good read. I guess it's the passion coming through. Is 56 too old to start? PS: I was in Hawaii a few years ago, early 2000's. Anyway there was a huge storm approaching. People in the hotel said it was very unusual. We went up to the north shore and watched these guys surfing waves that I swear looked 30' high. They had guys with wave runners towing them out the to the surf. Lifeguard and police were all over the place...helicopters overhead. One of the locals said they were trying to keep people out of the water because it was so dangerous. That same week a surfer was killed by a shark near our hotel.
if you surf in wind and cold water enough the bones start growing together. so the doctor tells you to stop or have an operation. They also just seem to always be sensitive to wind and water. I tried wake boarding but after about one season the wind started making my get inflamed.
Any of you guys remember this movie from 1966? <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/XmudLnEV48k&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/XmudLnEV48k&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>
i read some of these surfers are damn fucking territorial, one beginner i read had his face beaten in because he was "infringing" on their spot. fucking bullshit, they can try that with me, and my bodyguards will spring out from the palm trees behind and take off their head with a meat cleaver