Thought id ask, figure theres some treadler's here, and the cycling forums........is it just me, or are they insufferable snobs, basically? Looks like a Giant -boulder would be the minimum, just to be sure it doesnt snap in half on me. The rincon is also good...... Anyone own one? Feedback from cheaper bikes?
may i suggest used cannondale scalpel from e-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/2003-Cannondale...ryZ98083QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem way better than buying a cheap new bike. regards, surf
I bought GT Zaskar in 1995. Everyone said they were over engineereed with the triple triangle and overdone welds. I rode it hard for about 5 years. Its 12 years later and it still rides great. Frame is bomb proof and the cranks and the gears are still smooth as any bike I have ridden. So I would say the first thing to consider is the geometry but after that get a frame that is considered bomb proof. also I weigh 225.
How much do you want to spend? I would avoid buying a used Cannondale aka Can-of-ale, or any used aluminum (incl scandium) bike. I speak from experience as a guy who had a used Klein frame snap at the headtube. Thankfully I had already finished the major downhill section and the frame gave way at 10mph instead of the 30+ . You can check some reviews at www.mtbr.com
I've raced cross-country expert class since '91. If you can find a hand built Zaskar LE frame buy it. Post buy out, GT's just like all the rest.
I started racing in 91 too(sport class). Where are you located? I haven't raced in years but trying to get back into it. 914 area code?
Hah, yeah thats where i read the reveiws, just registered there myself, the boulder has a great rep in the price range, 300-500 ish. Paying much more for something that could be lifted so easily doesnt appeal to me, and i dont plan on any serious riding-havent had a mtb for 15+ years, thought it might be fun to get back into it. Edit-Im 105 kg or so, so ruggedness and stopping power are the biggest considerations.
GT made a titanium Zaskar frame that can be had for a few hundred on ebay, although I don't see one currently. Used aluminum frames can be risky. It's best to buy new or buy a used titanium or steel rig. Make sure you get a 1 1/8" headtube if buying an older bike. In cycling you pay for a reduction in weight -- the lighter the bike/components, the more you pay. Avoid the urge to go full-suspension. Most FS linkages and geometries are sh1t, and it adds a ton of weight. I built an Independent Fabrications hardtail with a Rohloff hub and it costs as much as a new hyundai. No need to go crazy, $1500 will buy you a great performing hardtail. Buy one of the mountain biking rags and do some shopping on craigslist, ebay and mtbr.com. Have fun. For titanium: Independent Fabrications Moots
A used Kona or Voodoo is a good bet, IMO they are the best built bikes and I raced Elite for 3 years on different brands and found anything built and designed by Joe Murray always lasts longest. Also, avoid aftermarket parts other than Shimano. I find gripshift, sram, etc has always been garbage. Fisher- underweight bikes not meant for anyone over 160 lbs. Broken 2 Procalibers myself. The GT Zaskar's welds have been known to break, maybe they've changed fabricators. Don't know if this has changed. If you want a classic bike that lasts, you might find a used Voodoo in So Cal. I strongly recommend them, though the company was shut down in 2001. Places to look: Craigslist Kijiji Canadian Cyclist classified
Yeah, dont want FS, talking to a guy, got himself a new FS $2000 avante, and he reckons it sucks for going uphill-downhill it rocks though. My last bike was an early (cheap)repco, no suspension, weighed a tonne, crummy components-it copped a hammering, but couldnt kill it, damn near indestructable. But in flat country, brakes and gears working properly wasnt that important.....its quite hilly here, and 15 kg heavier....... I actually saw a folding bike looked pretty cool, (i love practicality) but anything fancy would just be a theft magnet......still, there cool. http://www.onyerbike.com.au/